Why is My Brow Lamination Not Lasting?

There’s nothing more frustrating than completing a beautiful brow lamination, only to find that the results don’t seem to last as long as expected. A successful brow lamination should generally remain visible for several weeks, gradually returning to its usual shape and structure as the natural brow growth cycle takes place.

If your client’s brow lamination isn’t lasting as expected and the hairs seem to be - gradually returning to their natural growth pattern, there could be several reasons why... and the solution isn’t always as simple as increasing your processing time.

1. The Brow Hairs Haven’t Been Processed Enough

One of the most common reasons for a brow lamination not lasting is under-processing during Step 1.

Step 1 is responsible for reducing the hair’s existing structural resistance so that it can be redirected into a new position. The reducing agent breaks down the disulphide bonds within the hair’s cortex to be able to restructure the direction of hair growth and therefore the shape of the overall brow. If the disulphide bonds have not been broken down sufficiently, the hairs naturally return towards their original growth pattern.

This is particularly common with coarse, dense or resistant brow hair types, as these hair types typically have a more robust cuticle structure, meaning it can take longer for the reducing agent to penetrate the hair and reach the cortex where the structural changes take place. It’s common for artists to become anxious about over-processing and remove Step 1 too early.

However, another major factor is relying too heavily on set processing times rather than visual assessment. Learning to recognise when each individual client’s hair has softened and reduced sufficiently is an essential skill in brow lamination. Processing times should be used as a guide rather than relied upon in isolation. The hair should be continually assessed, with timings adapted according to the individual client, hair type, resistance and the specific system being used.

2. Hydrogen Bonds

Although not as relevant to the procedure at hand, we will briefly cover Hydrogen Bonds. These bonds are known as ‘side bonds’ and are very weak in comparison to Disulphide Bonds. Hydrogen Bonds can be easily and temporarily broken in the presence of water, heat and styling products. However, once these elements are removed, the Hydrogen Bonds can reform and maintain their natural structure.

How are Hydrogen Bonds relevant?

All three steps used for lamination contain high levels of aqua (water) and other ingredients of a fluid consistency to aid moisture. These elements will also affect the Hydrogen Bonds as well as the Disulphide Bonds. Therefore, we see the result of both bonds having been broken. However, we really only want to be able to see the result of the Disulphide Bonds having been broken, not the Hydrogen Bonds. Seeing the results of the Hydrogen Bonds having also been broken misconstrues your ability to see the true success of your actions. In order to be able to see just the results of the Disulphide Bonds having been broken, any products that break Hydrogen Bonds have to be removed i.e. any aqua/other fluids need to be thoroughly removed, and the hair allowed to dry out so that it is not being weighed down, allowing all Hydrogen Bonds to reform.

Only then will we see the true results of the Disulphide Bond restructure. It may be that you need to reapply further product as it turns out that you are not satisfied with the results. But you will not know until you can see the true chemical change in the Disulphide Bonds. It is good practice to remove excess product in between steps in order to assess your results clearly, but also to remove any product that could cause a barrier for the next product.

FACT - Disulphide Bonds can only be broken and restructured through a chemical change; these bonds are not affected by water. Therefore, we are busting the myth that clients need to keep their eyebrows free from water for a certain amount of time, as the water is not going to affect the new structure. However, steam and heat can affect the results whilst the hair is particularly vulnerable (within the first 48 hours). Heat and steam can cause the cuticle to open, which will cause the cortex to be more susceptible to a pH change. Although the disulphide bond structure will not change, the pH change could cause the hairs to slightly change shape.

3. Step 2 Hasn’t Been Given Enough Time

Step 1 gets a lot of attention, but Step 2 is equally important.

Once the hair has been softened and repositioned, Step 2 helps reform the disulphide bonds within the hair in its new position. If Step 2 is removed too quickly, the new shape may not be sufficiently established, potentially affecting the longevity of the finished lamination.

Always follow the manufacturer’s recommended timings and protocol for the specific system you are using rather than assuming the same timing rules apply across every brand.

4. The Hair Wasn’t Positioned Correctly During Step 2

It isn’t just how long you leave Step 2 on that matters; it’s also how the hairs are positioned while it works.

The direction in which you set the brows during Step 2 contributes to the finished shape. Take your time to position the hairs neatly and intentionally before and during this stage.

5. You’re Using the Wrong System for the Hair Type

Not every hair type, and not every lamination system, behaves in the same way.

Fine hair types may soften incredibly quickly, while thick, coarse or resistant hair types can require significantly more time and control. Likewise, different reducing agents and formulations can produce very different processing times.

This is why understanding the difference between systems such as TGA and Cysteamine is so important. Instead of choosing a system simply because it is your favourite, consider which chemistry and processing profile best suits the hair type in front of you. Want to learn the differences between TGA and Cysteamine? Click here.

6. The Client Is Expecting the Brows to Stay ‘Glued’ in Position

This is a big one.

Brow lamination does not permanently fix the hairs into their new shape and structure.

Immediately after treatment, the brows are perfectly styled into place, which can lead clients to expect them to remain in that exact position for the next six weeks. However, this isn’t how brow lamination works. The treatment temporarily restructures the brow hairs into a new, more desirable direction, encouraging them to naturally sit within their new shape while making them significantly easier to style and manage throughout the lamination cycle.

Your client will still need to brush and style their brows into their preferred position and look after them using the appropriate aftercare.

7. Aftercare Can Affect the Result

How the brows are treated following the appointment can influence how they look and feel over the following weeks. Clients should follow the aftercare advice recommended for the system you’ve used and avoid unnecessarily aggressive cleansing, rubbing or repeated manipulation of the brow hairs.

It’s also important to encourage ongoing conditioning and nourishment. Lamination is a chemical service, and maintaining the condition and flexibility of the hair should remain a priority throughout the client’s lamination cycle.

Renew is a luxurious aftercare elixir meticulously crafted for both eyebrows and eyelashes.

Infused with a powerful blend of superfood oils and botanical actives, this product deeply nourishes each hair to strengthen, restore, and promote healthy growth.

8. Further Processing Isn’t the Answer

If your laminations aren’t lasting, your first instinct might be to simply process the brows for longer next time.

Be careful.

There is a significant difference between adequately processing resistant hair and overprocessing it. Excessive processing can weaken the hair structure, leaving brows dry, frizzy, brittle or difficult to manage, which certainly isn’t going to give you a better and long-lasting lamination.

The goal should always be to achieve enough structural change to successfully redirect the hair while maintaining its condition and integrity.

Summary

When a brow lamination isn’t lasting, don’t automatically blame the product or increase your processing time.

Look at the entire treatment:

• Was the hair properly cleansed?
• Was Step 1 processed sufficiently?
• Was Step 2 given enough time?
• Were the hairs positioned correctly?
• Was the right system chosen for the client’s hair type?
• And does the client understand how laminated brows should behave afterwards?

Consistent brow lamination results come from understanding the hair in front of you rather than following exactly the same protocol on every client.

The better you become at assessing the hair, understanding your chemistry and adapting your technique, the more predictable and longer-lasting your brow lamination results will become.